Expedition to Danum Valley, Sabah.

We were five enthusiastic nature-loving ladies setting off on a jungle adventure in mid-October 2017. Some of our group were already experienced jungle adventurers, which gave the novices (like me) a sense of comfort and security, and an assurance that we would indeed survive the 5 days and 4 nights in the jungle.

Our destination was the protected forest reserve, Danum Valley Conservation Area, in Sabah, Malaysia. Our aim was to spot, observe and hopefully photograph as much wildlife as the jungle would allow us. We drove to Miri and flew first to Kota Kinabalu. Another short flight took us to the small town of Lahad Datu, the capital of the Lahad Datu District of Sabah.

Photo Stahia Golding

There, we were met by our guides from the conservation group 1StopBorneo Wildlife. After a meet and greet light lunch at a local eatery, where “the best roti” is apparently sold, and a visit to the local (and well stocked) supermarket for supplies, we boarded a mini-bus for the next 2-hour leg of our journey. Initially we drove through long stretches of palm oil plantations, eventually breaking through into the pure, pristine primary rainforest of the Danum Valley and finally arriving at the centre. I tried to take it all in breathing deeply. The air was fragrant. All around us the jungle beckoned, sounds of the forest teased, and everything seemed to have a clean and green tint. I felt excited to begin our explorations…

Photo Stahia Golding

After registration and being presented with our complimentary leech socks by our wonderful guides, we quickly settled into our well set out accommodation which consisted of a dormitory-style “long house” with rows of bunks, shared bathroom (cold showers only), and basic but very adequate kitchen facilities. The “dining” area, which was under cover but in the open, provided us with a wonderful communal spot for eating, debriefing, reading, and even playing the famous Borneo memory game, and some speed scrabble. We also laughed a lot. I believe that had something to do with being exposed to the pure oxygen-rich air, filtered through the majestic jungle around us. I think we were high on oxygen for the duration of our stay!

Each of our days included three organised outings: early morning, mid-afternoon, and night-time. These were mostly on foot through various jungle tracks but included a couple of rides in a four-wheel drive, one of which was to the sunrise lookout tower just before dawn. The view there was breath-taking and I felt an incredible sense of awe and spiritual connection, especially when looking across the timeless, mist-covered Danum valley through some very powerful binoculars. By the way, these are an essential item to pack for such an adventure, as well as a good head-lamp or torch for the night walks.

The majesty of Danum Valley in moring mist. Photo: Stahia Golding

Every one of our outings was fully satisfying, giving us something to be amazed by, to excite us, and to leave us feeling awe-inspired by the power and beauty of the unspoilt natural world. Such a variety of creatures, big and small – insects, spiders, reptiles, birds and mammals. And such a rich tapestry of trees, vines, ferns, mosses, and fungi. Every living thing working together, intricately bonded and relying on each other. We were the outsiders, the observers, and we took every care to tread carefully and with the utmost respect (except when we had to quickly jump over trails of fire ants!). Otherwise, we went quietly and sloooow. One of the essential items to bring on such an adventure, according to our guide, is patience. If you see a branch move slightly when there is no breeze, you have to wait with your camera at the ready, to see what emerges. Is it a black squirrel, a red leaf monkey, or an orang-utan? If you hear the call of a Helmeted Hornbill you stop in your tracks and wait (and it can be a long wait) for a sighting. You learn to use jungle-type sounds (like the clicking of the tongue) to alert your group members if you spot something. The whole time you are also aware that leeches are reaching out to attach to you as you brush past the low plants on either side of the track. Our leech socks were magnificent in saving us from being “leeched” in most cases, although there were a couple of minor incidents amongst the group when leeches managed to suck a bit of blood. But by the end of the 5 days most of us were experts at removing our own leeches from our clothes and no longer had to call our guides to save us.

Tiger Leeches, Photo: Anna Coyajee Rietschoten

Colourful fungus, Photo : Stathia Golding

Whiskered Tree Swift. Photo: Stathia Golding

Photo: Stathia Golding

Green Crested Lizard. Photo: Anna Coyajee-van Rietschoten

So many highlights: the call of the gibbons; the pair of helmeted hornbills flying directly above us as we sat on the swinging bridge; the community of red-leaf monkeys foraging and frolicking in the trees while we observed from a purposely built tower; the surprise world of bugs under a very large bracket fungus attached to the trunk of a tree; making friends with Isabella, the bearded wild female boar who frequently visits the camp area; the orang-utan sightings...

bracket fungus. Photo: Anna Coyajee-van Rietschoten

Red-leaf monkey. Photo Marloes Stigborg-Janssen

Helmeted Hornbill. Photo:Anna Coyajee-van Rietschoten

The orang-utan sightings deserve a special recount of the experience. It was on our last afternoon walk that we took the Coffin Trail to see what we might see. Not long on the path one of our group noticed a slight movement directly above us, high up on a tree which was entangled by a strangler fig vine. Upon hearing the clicking signal we all stopped, watched, and waited. Our patience was rewarded when a very long, hairy, golden-red arm stretched into view, quickly followed by the rest of a female orang-utan. She was on the move. It was then that we saw her baby climbing down to her from higher up in the tree. We were spell-bound. Once she had the baby secure on her body she gracefully leaned over toward the neighbouring tree, causing the tree she was on to bend dramatically. Then, taking hold of the new tree's nearest branches, she transferred over to it releasing her hold on the first tree which whip-lashed back with a 'whoosh' once it was free of her weight. She then proceeded to move in a similar fashion from tree to tree until she had completed an entire circle above us, finally coming to rest with her little one in her fresh nest on a smaller tree which stood on the other side of the original one. They settled into the nest and disappeared from view. We silently bade them goodnight and walked back to the centre, not needing anything else from this outing, but planning to return to that spot early the next day…

Mama Orang-utanand baby. Photo: Anna Coyajee-van Rietschoten

We were ready at the break of day and eager to return to the Coffin Trail. Will we see her again? Would she still be there, or will she and her baby have now moved on to another part of the jungle? We waited ever so patiently, but even the most patient among us eventually resolved that it was time to move on. There would be no encounter today. That's okay, we were still ecstatic after being so blessed the day before. Then...a leaf moved...could it be?...no...yes!!!! There she was, coming out of the nest, sitting squarely on the branch extending from it and proceeding to...go to the toilet!! Observing someone relieving themselves first thing in the morning is probably not the most respectful of things to do, but we were transfixed. And she was high enough that our view was reasonably obscured so there was some privacy for her. The sounds were the best part. Imagine the steady sound of the rain in the trees and then the sound of heavy parcels falling through the leaves and branches and landing on the leaf covered ground with a soft thud. One landed on the path right where we stood. After several minutes of this bathroom activity the orang-utan set off with her youngster in the same manner as the day before, but this time slowly retreating further and deeper into the jungle until we lost sight of her. Wow! Blessed one day, spectacularly insulted the next, haha.

What a way to end this amazing expedition!

We were very lucky to have had so many encounters and sightings during our few days in Danum and between us we have some fabulous photos to share. Sightings like ours are obviously not guaranteed on such adventures as the jungle and its inhabitants are not controlled in any way.  But there will always be something to see and something worthwhile to take away, not least of all the feeling of being rejuvenated and replenished by being in such a pure environment, and not least of all the new connections and friendships that invariably result. It was an unforgettable trip which I highly recommend to anyone who loves and  is fascinated by the natural world.

1stopBorneo Wildlife is a conservation NGO group made up of passionate volunteers and based in Kota Kinabalu. Their aim is to protect the animals on Borneo through education and action. Have a look at their Facebook page or website www.1stopborneo.org for contact details, more information on future expeditions, and other activities.  

The Danum Adventurers. Back Row: Chris Dobson, Noortie Campman, Marloes Marloes Stigborg-Janssen, Anna Coyajee, Front Row: Chun Xing Wong( Presedent of 1Stopborneo Wildlife), Anna Cairns, Stathia Goling, Shavez Cheema (Founder of 1StopBorneo Wildlife).

Modelling our leech socks. Photo: Shavez Cheema  of 9